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维多利亚时期介绍

Victorian fashion comprises the various fashions and trends in British culture that emerged and grew in province throughout the Victorian era and the reign of Queen Victoria, a period which would last from June 1837 to January 1901. Covering nearly two thirds of the 19th century, the 64 year reign would see numerous changes in fashion. 维多利亚风格指1837年至1901年间,英国维多利亚女王在位期间的服饰风格,该时代女性的服饰特点是,大量运用蕾丝、细纱、荷叶边、缎带、蝴蝶结、多层次的蛋糕裁剪、折皱、抽褶等元素,以及立领、高腰、公主袖、羊腿袖等宫廷款式。

随着复古风潮的盛行,这股华丽而又含蓄的柔美风格,正带给我们耳目一新的感觉。

These changes would include, but not be limited to, changes in clothing, architecture, literature, and the decorative and visual arts.
Victorian period design was based on imitation and reproduction, made easier by the induction of mass production.
The Victorian period of fashion was about living more simply than the previous era. Clothing, makeup, and hairstyles become more natural and relaxed. The use of elaborate wigs made way for cleaner, gentler looks. False hair was limited to rats or switches.
服饰:Victorian Era, Clothing 1825-1850 这个时期两性服裝的潮流到达一种荒谬的定点。

女性则持续使用裙撑架,利用褶皱及蕾丝等把自己过度装饰得像个会走路的婚礼蛋糕。

由于缝纫机的发明,还有打版书和系统的散播,这个时期不论男人和女人的服裝都变的更为复杂。

By the later 1830s, fullness was moving from the upper to the lower sleeves. This morning dress of 1836–40 features shirring on the fitted upper sleeves; Victoria and Albert Museum
Croquet players of 1864 loop their skirts up from floor-length over hooped petticoats. Small hats with ribbon streamers were very popular for young women in the mid-1860s.
到了1860年,hoop实在是太大了因而它的发展也受到限制,于是hoop的形状逐渐变成圓卵形加上在背后大量拖曳的裙摆。

1866年,hoop的size逐渐縮小但仍维持圓卵形,直到1870年渐渐演变为所谓的Tornure或是Bustle。

这样的演变使得女性的体型姿势向前倾斜,就像一艘船的船头一样。

此时最特別的是,女性的裙撑架,出現「前扁后膨,强调臀部」款式造型的变化。

1860年的crinoline如钢般坚挺,从1864年起,用三角形布拼缝起的裙子使得裙宽达到一种良好的状态。

1870年,本时期初,女子穿着「臀垫」〈bustle〉以达到「强调臀部突出」的造型。

在1875年之后,女性则转而流行「紧身与拖曳裙」款式的造型,并强调腰部以下背后华丽的装饰。

Bustles and elaborate drapery characterize evening dresses of the early 1870s. The gentleman wears evening dress. Detail of "Too Early" by Tissot, 1873。

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