服装辅料的种类及性能
(e). Synthetic fiber lining 合成纤维长丝里料
used for common clothing like low or middle grade jacket, windbreaker and skiing wear. 质地轻盈,平整光滑,坚牢耐磨,不缩水,不褪色,价格便宜。 但是吸湿性小,静电较大。穿着有闷热感,不够悬垂,也容易吸尘。
b. Interlining
c.packing 填料
materials within the shell faber and linings, warm, in shape and functional.
common materials: ①fibre:cotton packing(蓬松柔软,价廉舒适,弹性差水洗难 干,易变形),down feather packing动物绒填料(保暖性好,易毡 结) 、化纤絮填料。 ②natural fur and feather天然毛皮和羽绒(以鸭绒为主,导热系 数小,蓬松性好,价格昂贵)。 ③mixed packing混合絮填料(兼顾两种纤维的特性,降低成本 提高保暖性) ④others
服装辅料是指除面料外装饰服装和扩展服装功能的材料。辅 料的装饰性、加工型、舒适性、保健性等直接影响到服装的 性能与销售,因此服装辅料是服装的基础。
According to the different funtions, the garment accessories can be classified as following 8 parts:
针织结构,花边孔眼多,
组织稀松,外观轻盈。 分有牙口和无牙口两类。
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woven lace机织花边
提花机控制经纬纱
织成。质地紧密, 色彩丰富。
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silk braid 绦(tao)子
丝线编织的圆或扁平状的带状物,一般用作衣边,
枕头,窗帘等的装饰物。
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f. laces, tapes and cords
a. lining 里料
(a). Cotton Lining used for the cotton casual clothing, jacket, children's garment and so on.
It's warm, antistatic, comfortable and reasonably priced, but not smooth enough.
Ribben
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g. fasten materials 紧扣材料
It's an important branch of acceserries, includes zippers, botton and metal fastenr.
具有一定的艺术性,品种繁多,花样丰富材料小却起到画龙点睛 的作用。
Garment Accessories
Ⅰ.Varieties and performances of Garment Accessories
Definition:garment accessories refer to the materials, except the shell fabric(面料), which are used to decorate clothing and strenthen its functions. Accessories is foundation of clothing, because the decoretion, processability, comfort and health of them will directly influnce the performances and sale of clothes.
(b). cords: decorative cord装饰性绳, elastic cord松紧绳 (c). tapes: elastic松紧带, ribben罗纹带, grosgrain缎带, rayon belt人造丝带
Elastic
松紧带:有弹性材 料的扁平带状织物。
罗纹带:由橡皮线与棉线、 化纤等原料织成的罗纹组织针织品。
a. lining 里料
The lining is a layer of cloth attached to the inside of it in order to make it thicker or warmer, or in order to make it hang better.
Main varieties: cotton lining棉织物里料, silk lining丝织物里料,viscose lining粘胶纤 维里料, acetate lining醋酯长丝里料(亚沙迪里布), synthetic fiber lining and so on. common lining: natural fibre ( cotton, silk) ,
(b). Silk lining used for silk garment, thin woollen garment, high-grade woolen garment, and leather garment. it's smooth, quality, beautiful and cool, but loose, easy to shrink and expensive. (c). Viscse lining 粘胶纤维里料 usually refers to twill rayon lining(美丽绸) which is widely used for middle and high-class clothing, such as suit, overcoat, skirt, trousers and jacket. it's flat and smooth, convenient to wear, properly thin, colorful, easy to heat set and it usually has good forming results.
g. fasten materials
(a).
be
button
classified with materials:
1. natural material button: matel button, shell button, wood button,coconut shell button椰子壳纽 扣,stone,china,gemstone, claw button 羊角扣 2. chemical materials button: resin button树脂纽扣, plastic button 3. combined button 组合纽扣
chemical fibers or filament yarn fabric长丝织物 ( nylon taffeta尼龙绸, polyester silk涤丝绸) blended fabric and interlacing fabric混纺和交织织物 (artificial fur人造毛皮, camlet羽纱驼绒布).
(b)hemp lining麻衬 麻衬是以麻纤维为原料的平纹组织织物,具 有良好的硬挺度与弹性,是高档服装用衬。市场上大多数麻衬, 实际上是纯棉粗布浸入适量树脂胶汁处理后制成的,是西装、 大衣的主要用衬。
(c). Wool/ Hair interlining 毛鬃衬 即毛衬,也称黑炭衬,多为深灰与杂
d. padding 垫料
垫料位于服装里层,赋予服装丰满和曲线美的外观。 main products (a).bra胸垫 (b). collar padding领垫 (c). shoulder pad肩垫 其中,肩垫又可以细分为多种。例如,按成型方式分,可分为以下三 种: 热塑型thermoplastic:利用模具成型和熔胶粘合技术可制作出款式精 美、表面光洁、手感适度的肩垫,广泛适用于各类服装。对于薄型面 料时装来说,高级热塑型肩垫更是不可或缺的工具。 缝合型seaming:利用拼缝机及高头车等设备可将不同原材料拼合成 不同款式的肩垫,其产品造型及表面光洁度较差,多使用于厚型面料 服装。 切割型cutting:用切割设备将特定的原材料(海棉)进行切割,可以制 成肩垫。但由于海棉肩垫的固有缺陷(易变形、易变色等),这种类型 的肩垫已基本被淘汰出局。
lining
b. interlining 衬料
refers to the materia which be used in certain part of clothes to set off or complete the forming, such as collar interlining, chest interlining, waist band interlining腰头衬. 服装衬料种类繁多,按使用的部位、衬布用料、衬的底布类型、 衬料与面料的结合方式可以分为若干类。主要品种有,棉衬布、 麻布、毛鬃衬、马尾衬、树脂衬、粘合衬等。 选用原则:①衬料硬挺有弹性,有利于支撑面料; ②根据部位、用途、面料选用不同衬料; ③选用不易褪色染色的面料。 (a).cotton interlining棉布衬 常见的棉布衬有粗布和细布衬两种, 均为平纹组织,有原色和漂白两种,属于低档衬布。
色。一般为牦牛毛、羊毛、人发混纺或交织而成的平纹组织织物。洗 衬硬挺而富有弹性,造型性能好,多用作中高档服装的衬布,如中厚 型面料的西装、驳头衬等。 (d). Horsehair interlining 马尾衬 马尾衬是由马尾与羊毛交织而成的平纹织物,表面为马尾的棕褐色与 本白色相交错,密度较为稀疏。马尾衬弹性极好,不折皱,挺括、湿 热状态下可归拔出设计所需形状,长做为高档服装的胸衬。 (e). Resin interlining 树脂衬 树脂衬是用纯棉布或涤棉布经过树脂胶浸 渍处理加工制成的衬布,大多经过漂白。此衬硬挺度高,弹性好,缩 水率小,耐水洗,尺寸稳定,不易变形,多用于中山装(Mao Suit)、 衬衫的领衬。 (f). Fusible interlining 粘合衬 也叫热熔衬,是在基础布上涂上热熔胶制成的。按底布类型分,机织粘 合衬、针织粘合衬、无纺衬等。