BBackstitch: See definition for Backtack.Backtack:Stitches used to secure the threads at the beginning and/or ending of a row of stitching.Bagged Lining: Lining that is stitched securely to shell at hems.Balance:Garment appears symmetrical on the body. Hanging equal distances from the body right to left, and front to back.AAppliqué:Surface pattern made by cutting out fabric or lace designs andattaching them to another fabric or lace by means of embroidery or stitching.Armhole:Section of a garment through which an arm passes or into which a sleeve is sewn.Armhole Drop:Distance from High Point Shoulder or Low Point Shoulder measured to imaginary line at base of armhole that is at a 90-degree angle from CF or CB.Armhole Point:The point on a pattern where armhole and side seam intersect.Armscye:See definition for Armhole.Balanced Plaid/Stripe Placement:Refers to the symmetrical appearance of the plaid on the body. The stripe/plaid must start at the same point on both sides of the garment.Banana Stand:See definition for Half Moon Stand. Band Neckline, Circular:For definition see set-circular.Band Neckline, Flat:For definition see set-flatBarrel Button:See definition for Toggle Button.Bartack: A series of short stitches sewn close together and used to reinforceareas of strain or stress. Can be zigzag or straight stitching.Basting Stitch:Temporarily holds together two layers of fabric.Bellow: A method of adding fullness to an area of a garment, usually apocket. Often stitched around edges to hold shape.Bellying: See CocklingBelt loop:Narrow strip of fabric or thread chain at the waistline to keep a belt inposition.Besom Pocket:See definition for Welt Pocket.Bias Cut:Cutting diagonally across the grain of the fabric at a 45 degree angleto the selvedge, resulting in a garment that clings and follows bodycurves closely.Bind Off (Sweater):See definition for Cast Off.Binding: A narrow strip of fabric used to cover seams or raw edges to give aclean finished edge and is visible on both sides of the fabric. Can besingle-turned, double-turned or combination.Blanket Stitch(502)Blended Yarns:Yarns composed of two or more different fibers mixed together andthen spun to form one yarn.Blindstitch: For Definition see Hem and 103Blistering:See definition for Bubbling.Block:See definition for Sloper.Blocking:The shaping of a sweater into its finished form. Steam and pressureare applied to make the blocked shape hold.Body Fabric:Outer layer of fabric in a garment.Bond Strength:The numerical measurement of force required to separate theinterlining from the piece goods. The measurement of gram force isrecorded in Newton (N = 102gf) or Ounce (oz = 28.35gf).Bonding:Process of joining 2 fabrics into one by backing with adhesive orfoam.Boning:Firm flexible strip, like nylon, concealed in casing to hold shape orprevent stretching.Bootcut Silhouette:Bound Buttonhole:For definition see buttonholeBound Neckline, Circular: For definition see set-circular.Bound Neckline, Flat:For definition see set-flatBound Seam:Method of finishing a seam by binding seam allowance.Bow, Bowing: A fabric flaw in which the crosswise yarns arc across the width of thefabric.Box Pleat:Pleat formed by folding material alternately in opposite directions.Box Pleat Inverted Box PleatBraided Elastic:See definition for Elastic BraidedBubbling:The separation at different points between the interlining and thepiece goods.Buckle: A fastening device, in a variety of sizes and shapes, consisting of anopen rim having a single or center bar, with or without a prong.Bust Dart:See definition for Dart.Busted Seam:See definition for Pressed Open Seam.Button:Decorative or functional component used to hold two sides of agarment together. Can be made out of many materials and can eitherhave holes punched in the center for stitching or a shank on theback. Buttons are made to slip through a buttonhole or fabric loop.See definition for Button.Button and Loop Cross-Stitch Attached:Button Parallel StitchSee definition for Button.Attached:Buttonhole:Opening for a button to pass through and secure a garment opening.Can be bound, stitched/worked, or made from a loop of thread, cordor bias tubing.Button Sleeve Placket:See definition for Placket.Button Stabilizer: A plain flat button usually made of clear plastic placed inside agarment behind the top outside button. Can be used anywhere thereare buttons for closure.CCap Snap:See definition for Snap.Cargo Pocket: A stylized patch pocket, often with bellows, with flap closure at thetop.Casing:Fold of fabric stitched down to form an opening through which elasticor a cord is drawn.Cast Off (Sweater):Methods of removing open stitches from the needles must be finishedwith a bind off (like rib neck trim) to prevent unraveling of thefinished edge. Can also be decorative stitches within a panel.Cast On (Sweater):See definition of Sweater Start.Centered Over Seam Stitch:Topstitch on each side of the seam, equal distance from the seam. Can be produced by two single needles or 1 double needle.Chain Tack:See definition for Swing Tack.Chisel Pocket:See definition for Ruler Pocket. Circular Finish:See definition for Set Circular Circular Knit:See definition for Tubular Knit.Clean Finish:Indicates that raw edges of fabric are finished in a way that stopsfabric from fraying and hides raw edges.Clicking:See definition for Die Cutting.Closure:Components that work together to hold 2 sides of a garmenttogether.Cockling: Cockling and Bellying mean the same thing. If elastic has a wavyappearance along its length, this is called cockling or bellying. Theprimary cause is when the individual ends of spandex (rubber) relaxor contract more than the majority in the same length of the elasticcausing waviness along the top edge.Coin Pocket:Small decorative pocket usually found on bottom garments, usuallylocated inside side pocket. Can be a patch pocket or on-seam pocketconstruction.Collar:No Band Collar With Band CollarCollar Stay:Narrow strip of plastic or metal inserted in point of collar from theunderside or is sewn to interlining between layers of collar fabricadded to garment to ensure a crisp unwrinkled look.Collarband:See definition for CollarstandCollarstand:Separate shaped piece of fabric that is the full length of garmentneckline and is inserted between garment neckline and collar. Used tohelp shape and fit collar to body and also can be used to closeneckline.Color Fast: A term used to determine whether a color ‘bleeds’ during laundering.This is normally measured by a grading system 1 – 5.Concealed Zipper:Zipper is set along folded edges of seam line with zipper teeth notvisible. Some specific construction methods are center lapped orkissing, side lapped, and invisible.Construction:Processes in order to construct a garment, consists of stitchingand/or fusing garment pieces together.Continuous Sleeve Placket:See definition for Placket.Contoured Waistband:See definition for Waistband.Cording:See definition for Piping.Cordlock: A locking device that is typically spring activated and may have 1 or2 holes. Used to adjust drawcords, etc.Core Thread:Thread formed by spinning a cotton, rayon, or polyester fiber arounda continuous filament bundle of fibers giving the thread theadvantages of a spun and Filament construction.Course: A crosswise or horizontal row of loops in knitted fabric.Covered Button:See definition for Button.Crack-stitched:See definition for Stitch-in-the-Ditch.Crescent Stand:See definition for Half Moon Stand.Crocking:The transfer of dye stuff from one fabric to another by friction. Thisproblem is usually worse with darker shades. Reds are often aproblem in this respect. This is a dyeing problem and can be dealtwith in the dye house.Cross Grain Cut:The cutting of a pattern piece perpendicular to the selvedge of thefabricCrotch:Crotch Curve:The bottom of a rise curve.Crotch Depth:The straight distance from crotch to top of waistband in pants, shorts,etc.Crotch Point:The point on the pattern where the front or back rise intersects withthe inseam.Curtain Waistband: A method of finishing the waist of a garment that is a separate sewnon facing that hangs below lower seam of waistband made of fabricother than shell that is interface d/interlined or turned.Cut and Sew (Sweater):Sweater panels are knit to the body length of the largest size, theshape of the neckline, shoulders and armholes are cut out, smallersizes are cut down.Cut On Placket:See definition for Placket.Cutting:Formation of garment pieces from layers (plies) of fabric by means ofa die, laser or knife. Typically done on a long table.DDart: A sewn wedge or diamond shaped tuck/seam used to make agarment conform to the curves of the body.Delamination: A separation in the bond between the fusible interlining and the piecegoods. This can be total separation (total delamination) or partialseparation (localized delaminiation).Denier:Weight measurement of yarns. Low numbers represent the finer sizesand the higher numbers represent the coarser/heavier sizes.Also see definition for Elastic DenierDie Cutting:Sharp metal outlines in the shape of pattern pieces used to cut pliesof fabric in conjunction with either a click press or die cutting press.Typically used for smaller pattern pieces.Differential Shrinkage:Occurs when the piece goods and the interlining are not moving insync and will cause distortion in the surface appearance of thegarment part.Doghouse Stitch:See definition for Triangle Reinforce Stitch.See definition for Centered Over Seam Stitch.Double Needle CenteredOver Seam:Double Turn Hem: See definition for Hem.See definition for Yoke.Double Yoke/ StylizedYoke:Drape:See definition for Hang.Drawcord:See definition for Drawstring.Drawstring: A narrow string, ribbon, cord, or tube of fabric inserted into a casingand pulled up or tied to create shape and/or hold the garment to thebody.Dress Form:See definition for Mannequin.D-Ring:“D” shaped piece of hardware often used to create an adjustableclosure held together by a looped and stitched end of a belt.EEase:The method of sewing together 2 components of varying seam lengths evenlydistributing fullness so as not to cause gathers or puckers. See definitions forTight, Moderate and Generous.Ease Over Body:The amount of room above body measurements needed in a garment to allowadequate movement when worn.Eighth Top Pocket:See definition for Slant Pocket.Elastic Braided: A narrow elastic band, often used as trimmings and bindings. Formed byplating several strands of yards and bare elastomers. Braided elastic usuallybecomes narrowed when elongated. Made on a circular braiding machine.Elastic Denier:The size or thickness of the yarn. Also thickness of spandex (The lower thenumber the weaker the spandex)Elastic Elastomers:Natural Rubber ThreadElastic Elongation:Stretch –measure 5” relaxed and pull to m aximum; measurement result givenin a %.quality of elastic.Elastic Gauge:Thickness of rubber (The lower the number the stronger the rubber)Elastic Knitted:Fabric construction for interlocking series of looper of one or more yarns.Materials normally used are textured polyester yarns or textured nylon andbare spandex or extruded rubber. Made on a flat bed crochet machine.Elastic Modulus:Power (resistance to stretch), strength or tension of the elastic. The forcerequired to pull the elastic to a specific stretch/length, determines the amountof pressure the elastic is putting on the wearer’s body.Elastic Non Roll:Elastic that has enough width wise stability so it does not bend, roll or crushacross its width when worn. Made with monofilament thread.Elastic Recovery:Ability of elastic to retain its original length immediately after stretching andreleasing. After stretching the elastic to its maximum capability. The elasticmust return to 90% to 92% of its original length.Elastic Waistband: See definition for WaistbandElastic Woven: Primarily made up of warp yarns, fill yarns and covered spandex or coveredextruded rubber. Generally thicker and denser due to the bulkiness of thecovered elastomers and stitch formations. Made on a shuttle loom. Elastomeric: An end of spandex which has been covered or twisted with yarn.Embroidery:Fancy needlework or trimming using colored yarn, floss, cotton, silk or metallicthreads.Enclosed Seam:See definition for French Seams.quality of elastic.Execution:See definition for Construction.Exposed Seam:Seams in which the seam allowances are visible on the outside of the garment. Exposed Zipper:Zipper is set along folded edges of seam line with zipper teeth visible.Expression of Fit:Designer’s vision of how the garment should fit on the human form. The keyelements of fit that are related to the styling of the garment include, but arenot limited to, where the garment sits on the waist of the body and how tightfitting a garment is. It is possible for a garment to achieve an excellent fit, butstill not have achieved the designer’s vision for fit.See definition for Waistband.Extended TabWaistband:Eyelet:Small circular plastic or metal tube secured to fabric to form an opening. Canalso be formed by a round embroidered opening. Can be decorative or usedwith cord.FFabric:Cloth made of textile yarns or fibers by weaving,knitting, lace making, braiding, netting, or felting. Canalso be made by bonding or non-woven methods. Fabric Hand Feel:See definition for Hand.Face:Surface of fabric designated in the weaving/knittingprocess to be used as the outside of a finishedgarment.Facing:Piece of fabric used to finish a raw edge. Facings areturned to the inside of a garment enclosing seams.Faggoting:Open-work embroidery done by drawing out horizontalthreads of fabric, then tying the vertical threads ingroups to produce open spaces, OR, decorativestitching that holds together two closely spaced foldededges of fabric with ornamental stitches.Fashioning Marks (Sweater):Raised “twists” that results from transferring loops to adjacent needles to decrease the width of the knitted panel, usually occurs in a series at neckline and armhole.Felled Seam:Process that conceals seam allowance between plies asthey are folded together and topstitched through alllayers.Female Closure:Fiber:Basic filament or strand from which yarns are made.Fibers are either short with natural materials or man-made materials which are made in long continuousfilaments.Filament: A fiber of indefinite or extreme length as found in silkor synthetic fibers.Fill:Crosswise or horizontal yarn of a woven fabric thatruns at right angles to the warp yarns or selvage.Findings:All the smaller items and trimmings that complete agarment. Maybe decorative material that adorns thegarment.A small knitted stitch usually 12 to 24 gauge.Fine Gauge(Sweater):Finishing:All the final stages of preparing a garment for point ofsale. Includes, but not limited to, washing, pressing,thread clipping, inspection, ticketing, etc.For Definition see buttonhole.FishtailButtonhole:Fit:How well a garment conforms to the 3-dimensionalhuman body.Fit Model:Individual who represents the figure type of theintended guest used to evaluate the fit of garments. Fitting Ease:See definition for Ease Over Body.Flap Pocket:Flare LegSilhouette:Flat Felled Seam:See definition for Felled Seam.Flat Finish:See definition for Set Flat.Flat Knit:Fabric knitted flat and has selvages.Flat Knit Collar:Floating Tack:See definition for Swing Tack.Fraying:Fraying is the unraveling of yarn in either the fill orwarp direction.Lining not attached at garment hem.Free HangingLining:French Dart: See definition for Dart.French Fly Facing: A separate sewn on fabric tab or extension used tocover zipper teeth. It extends from bottom of zipper towaistband and buttons to inside of pants near waist.French Seams:Process where raw edges of a seam are enclosedbetween garment plies as they are turned over andstitched, forming a clean finish.French Tack:See definition for Swing Tack.Frog:Ornamental braided two piece garment closure formingbutton and loopFull Fashioned / Knit to Shape (Sweater):Sweater panel is knit to shape by increasing and decreasing the number of needles used during the knitting action. No cutting is required to obtain the desired panel shape.Full Needle Rib (Sweater):Double bed construct commonly used at start or placket; looks like 1X1 rib, but is more compact. Can be either link/loop attached (see linking/Looping Definition) or continuous knit attach.Full Placket:See definition for Placket.Fusible:Fabric containing heat sensitive adhesive forapplication using heat and pressure. Commonly seenon interfacing or decorative trims.GGathering:See definition for Shirring.Gauge Elastic:See definition for Elastic GaugeGauge (Sewing)The distance between needles on a sewingmachine.Gauge(Knits/Sweaters):Denotes the number of needles per inch on aknitting machine. The larger the number (gauge)the finer the knit. Example 12 gg has 12 needlesper inch vs 3 gg with 3 needles per inch. Gauntlet: A type of sleeve placket.Generous Ease:Loosely fits to body with a large amount of ease.Godet:Triangle shaped inset of fabric that createsfullness, or greater width. Typically used in skirtsand bell-bottom pants.Gore:Skirt section that is wider at the hem than thewaist, providing fullness and shaping to waistwithout using darts.Graded Pattern:Individual patterns for each size within a sizerange.Grading:The process of proportionately increasing ordecreasing a core size pattern to create patternsaccordingly in relationship to body growth.Grain:Warp or lengthwise direction of the fabric,running parallel to the selvage.Greige Fabric:See definition for Greige Goods.Greige Goods:Pronounced (gr or gr zh). An unfinishedfabric just off the loom or knitting machine.Grin Through:1) The ability to see under layer of fabric orlining through the garment shell fabric due tocolor or fabric weight. 2)A printing termreferring to either poor cover where thebackground shade shows through the print.Grommet:See definition for Eyelet.Gusset:Shaped piece of fabric inserted into a garmentseam or slash opening to permit greatermovement. Commonly found on underarms,crotch of pants, thermal underwear, and activewear.HHalf MoonPatch:See definition for Sweat Patch.Half Moon Stand:Separate shaped piece of fabric that is not the full length of garment neckline and is inserted between garment neckline and collar. Used to help shape and fit collar to body.Half Placket: See definition for Placket.Hand:The tactile characteristics that make up a fabric. Handle:Refers to the texture/softness/feel of the elastic whenbeing handled.Hand Stretch: A rough estimation for the elongation of a product. Thisshould be used only as a tool for comparison.Hang:How fabric reacts on the human body after garment issewn.Hasp:Fastener used in conjunction with a shank button.Commonly used on overall straps.Hem: A way to finish an opening.Hiking: A term used to describe the problem when a garment isnot balanced and an area of the bottom opening is risinghigher than the rest of the garment.Hollywood Waistband:A method of finishing the waist by extending the body of the garment to form the shaping of the waist. Usually clean finished with facing on the inside.Hook:See definition for Crotch Curve.Hook & Bar: A closure using a set of shaped metal plates, one which is curved to form a broad hook, the other a raised bar.Hook & Eye: A closure using a small metal hook on one side and either an embroidered loop or a small metal loop on the otherside.Hook & Eye Tape:A fastening tape that has metal hooks on one side and either and embroidered or metal loop on the other side.Hook & Loop Tape:A fastening tape that has very small nylon hooks that mesh with loops on opposite tape. Commonly known as Velcro®.HorizontalSlant Pocket:See definition for Slant PocketIInseam:The seam on garments located between legs and runsfrom the crotch to the hem.Interfacing:Supporting fabric either sewn or fused to the bodyfabric for body, stability and shape. Commonly used inwaistbands, plackets, collars, cuffs, and asreinforcement behind buttons and buttonholes. Interlining:See definition for Interfacing.Inverted Box Pleat: See definition for Box PleatInvisible Zipper:Specially designed zipper, no lines of stitching isvisible on the outside of the garment. Finishedappearance is of a plain seam with only part of the tabvisible on the outside of the garment.See definition for Scoop Pocket.See definition for Armhole.KKangaroo Pocket:Usually a center front pocket that has the pocket bagattached to exterior of garment with two openings.Pocket can be one piece or split into two pieces bycenter front closure.Keyhole Buttonhole:For Definition see ButtonholeKick Pleat:Clean finished opening at the sweep of a garmentcreated by one side of garment overlapping the otherto allow for movement.Kimono Sleeve:Kissing Zipper:Zipper is centered under two folded edges that meetat the center of the zipper teeth with two visible rowsof parallel stitching. A specific type of concealedzipper.Knife Cutting:Cutting plies of fabric by means of a straight edge,band or rotary knife.Knife Pleat: For Definition see Pleat.Knit Fabric:Fabric constructed by interlocking a series of loops byhand or machine.Knit to Shape (Sweater):Panels are knit to the exact shape required to construct the sweater. Cutting is allowed at the neckline if needed.Knitted Elastic:See definition for Elastic KnittedLLacing:Ribbon, cord, braid, or tubing in which two free endsare pulled alternately through opposing eyelets,grommets, buttonholes, or under hooks.Lapel:Shaped piece of fabric on center front opening abovetop closure which folds back to form a larger opening.Lapel Point:The widest distance on the lapel, usually forming apoint.Lapped Seam:Process of attaching two or more plies of fabric simplyby layering atop each other and stitching through alllayers.Lapped V-Neck:See definition for Miter.Lapped Zipper:See definition for Zipper.Laser Cutting:Fabric is placed on a vacuum table using suction andplastic over the top layer to stabilize plies beforecutting with laser.Layout:See definition for Marker.Lettuce Edge: A decorative hem used on knit fabrics. It is a denseoveredge hem 20-30 stitches per inch that is formedby stretching fabric while it passes through a 504 or505 overlock machine. Machine is set with differentialfeed to have extra ruffling than normalsewing. Various threads can be used but recommendto use textured nylon or textured poly.Ligne:Unit of measurement to measure button size. 40 ligneis equal to a diameter of 1 inch. Smaller the number,the smaller the button, and vice versa.Lining: A fabric replica of a garment sewn inside a garment.May be partially or fully lined. Hides innerconstruction, adds comfort, smoothness, warmth, andretains the shape of the outer layer.Linking / Looping (Sweater):Loops of two knit to shape garment parts are run onto a series of regularly spaced points, joined by chain stitching on linking machineLink/Loop Attached Placket View of LoopsLockstitch:See definition for 301Looping (Sweater): A method of joining two sweater panels together.Connects two courses of loops together, STITCH FORSTITCH, with a chain stitch of self yarn. Creates theeffect of uninterrupted knitting. Usually found in moreexpensive sweaters.Loose/Relaxed Fit:Fit of clothing is loose to body and has a moderateamount of ease.MMale, Non-GenderClosure:Mannequin:Model of the human body used to check theappearance of a garmentMarker: A diagram or arrangement of pattern pieces for astyle(s) or size(s) to be cut at one time, placed overplies of fabric. Pattern pieces fit tightly together forbest fabric utilization.Match and Balance Plaids/Stripes:Refers to the matching and balancing of plaids at joining seams or garment openings so the same stripe matches horizontally on each side of garment. If pattern is a stripe, the same stripe is engineered at the same point on the body of the garment.Merrow:Brand name of a sewing machine. Commonly used todescribe overlock 503.Miter:Creating an angled seam by cutting the 2 edges in adiagonal manner and stitching them together. Mitre:See definition for Miter.Mock/Folder Set French Seam:Version of a French seam sewn with use of a folder, raw seam allowance is encased between 2 rows of 301. Commonly used on woven tops, pants and dresses.Mock Fly:Looks like a functional fly but does not open. ModerateEase:Fit to body with a small to medium amount of ease. Modulus:See definition for Elastic ModulusMonkey Pawand Loop:See definition for Frog.Monocord Thread:Formed from continuous filaments that have been bonded together.Monofilament Thread:Formed by extruding a continuous filament through a spinneret with a specified diameter - resembles a fishing line.Multifilament Thread:Formed by twisting together continuous filaments into a cohesive bundle.NNap:An array of fiber ends protruding from the surface of one or bothsides of a fabric and giving a fuzzy appearance. Produced bybrushing, napping or raising the fibers. The nap may be in stripes orother patterns or may be sheared to obtain uniform length.Directional finish of a fabric created by raised yarns or brushing thesurface. Nap feels smooth when touched in one direction, rough in theother.Nap Down:Nap will feel smooth when touched in this direction, color will appeardull or grayed.Nap Up:Nap will feel rough when touched in this direction, color will appearricher in this direction but nap will become crushed with wear.Natural Fibers:Fibers that are of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin. Examples arewool, linen, silk, cotton, jute, hemp, ramie, cashmere, and mohair. No Band Collar:Non Roll Elastic:See definition for Elastic Non RollNon-Woven Fabric:Fabric constructed of fibers that have been held together by thermal,chemical, solvent, mechanical action, or combinations of these.OOff-Grain:1) Fabric: Warp and filling yarns on woven fabrics are not at right angles to each other. 2) Pattern: Straight of grain line on pattern is not placed parallel with thewarp and/or fill yarns on fabric.On-Grain:1) Fabric: Warp and filling yarns on woven fabrics intersect each other atright angles. 2) Pattern: Straight of grain line on pattern is placed parallelwith the warp and/or fill yarns of fabric.On-Seam Pocket:Pocket opening is placed in a seam of the garment with an interior pocket bag.Open Cut Work:Open-work embroidery done by drawing out horizontal threads of fabric, then tying the vertical threads in groups to produce open spaces, OR, decorative stitching thatholds together two closely spaced folded edges of fabric with ornamental stitches. Overedge: See definition for Hem.。