纱线的粗细换算方法（Yarn thickness conversion method）Yarn thickness and method of presentationFirst, the definition of yarn thicknessThe thickness of yarn is the most important index of yarn. Because the thickness of yarn is difficult to be directly measured by tools, the degree of yarn fineness is expressed by two indirect indexes, that is, fixed length system and fixed weight system.1, the definition of fixed length systemThe weight of the unit length of the yarn at the determined moisture regain. Fixed length system is divided into the Turks (Tex) system and Daniel (Denier) system of two.(1) Tex System: 1000 meters long yarn, in the determination of moisture regain weight (grams), known as the number of yarn (number is also vulgar name), expressed in Nt1000 x GkNt= -- --LFor example: there is a pure cotton yarn, weighing 1000 meters to 18.2 grams, assuming that the public moisture regain is just 8.5%, then the yarn called 18.2tex (or commonly known as No.18.2).(2) denier Neal system: 9000 meters long filament in the determination of moisture regain weight (grams), known as the number of denier filaments (denier also commonly known as D number), expressed in ND9000 x GkND= -- --LFor example: there is a filament, weighing 9000 meters to 150 grams, assuming no consideration of the public moisture regain factor, the yarn is called 150D.2, the definition of fixed weight systemTo set the yarn unit weight regain the public in length to that in constant weight system, there are two kinds of English count and metric number, there are often used in English count (Textbook of metric number is not introduced).Definition of the British count: how many 840 yards of a pound of yarn are determined at the firm regain rate, expressed in NeLNe= - -Ge * 840For example, there is a pure cotton yarn weighing 1 pounds, measuring its length of 32 840 yards, and assuming that the firm moisture regain is just 8.5%, then the yarn is called 32 yarn.3, the conversion of special numbers and imperial numbers583.1, 590.5Pure cotton yarn Nt= - - purifying yarn Nt= - -Ne NeFor example, a pure cotton yarn is known as 18.2tex, which is converted into 32 yarns by means of conversion.4, yarn number and inch count and yarn thicknessNumber: the greater the number of yarns, the greater the yarn; the smaller the number, the finer the yarn (proportional).Inch count: the larger the count of the yarn, the finer the yarn; the smaller the count in English, the greater the yarn (inverse relation).5, the relationship between yarn thickness and yarn weight is linearly related.For example, 2 40S yarns are the same size as a 20S, and the weight of 20S yarns is twice as much as that of 40S yarns(regardless of moisture regain and length).Two. Common code and indication of yarn1, pure cotton: C32S polyester cotton blended: T/C32S combed polyester cotton blended: JT/C32SPure polyester: T100D polyester cotton ratio 80/20 blended: T/C80/2032SPolyester viscose blend: T/R30S viscose: R30S cotton viscose blend: R/C30SCombed cotton: JC32SNote: when it comes to the blending ratio of cotton and polyester, the T/C, 65/35 does not need to be represented by 65/35, but the rest should be written out, and the larger proportion should be written on it. The smaller proportion is written below.Note 2: polyester filament is divided into network yarn and low elastic yarn, weaving production generally use low elastic yarn, network yarn is mainly used for dyeing yarn.Common polyester filament, such as 150D * 36F, 300D * 96F,Its "F" means that the filament has 36 or 96 filaments, consisting of 150D or 300D filament yarn. The same thickness of the filament, its "F" number of larger, generally more high-grade. When the number of "F" is equal to the number ofD, the filament is called superfine denier.2, the common code of the stock lineT/C40S /2 said the 40S of cotton twine (inch)JT/C14.6 * 2 14.6tex double line said combed polyester cotton (Tex)3, imperial count and specific number table10S=58tex 16S=36.4tex 20S=29.2tex 21S=27.8tex25S=23.3tex 26S=22.4Stex 28S=20.8tex 30S=19.4tex32S=18.2tex 40S=14.6tex 45S=13tex 60S=9.7texFor example, 4 commonly used yarn thickness rangeCotton: 10S~60S polyester cotton: 10S~45S viscose: 30S~32SPure polyester staple: T21S~T32SPure polyester filament: 75D, 100D, 150D, 300DSpandex: 20D, 30D, 40D, 70D, 210DThree, yarn thickness roughly dividedMedium (Branch) yarn: 18.2tex (32S) or soFine (branched) yarn: 14.6tex (40S) and finer yarnCoarse (branched) yarn: 27.8tex (21S) and coarser yarnFour, the national standard of the implementation of Tex (Tex) systemAll large and medium-sized state-owned enterprises use the Tex System (Tex), and their cotton bags are made of Tex (Tex) to indicate the yarn thickness. However, due to the influence of traditional customs, the use of imperial counts remains fairly common.Common quality defects and their causesFirst, the broken holeIn the fabric, with one or a plurality of yarn breakage caused by raveling coil (usually in the middle of the cloth rack). Causes:1, yarn tension is too large;2, the needle groove tight or lack of oil (straight bar); 3, the cloth is too tight;4, the number of pins broken, needle tongue, needle tongue askew, crooked needle and sink film broken;5, triangle alignment is not good;6, yarn strength difference;7, yarn guide position is not good;8, machine number does not match with the yarn;9, temperature and humidity are not suitable.Two, missing needleThe yarn is not broken. The defect caused by raveling coil without needle hook pad to the new yarn, straight column leakage (caused by needle), needle needle and dispersive leakage (usually in the frame on both sides of the cloth). Causes:Note: 3 or more needle leakage, and broken hole difference: whether the yarn broken.1 、 the yarn guide position is not installed well;2, triangle contraposition is not good;3, needle heel bad, needle tongue slightly askew, needle length or so askew.4, needle oil;5, yarn tension uneven or small;6, the cloth tension is too small or uneven;7, the needle in the tank top jacquard is too loose, wrong needle etc..Three 、 flower needleIn the process of winding, the old coil is not out of the needle hook, and the new yarn is hooked to form a coil, and the old and new coils are superposed together. Straight needle (knitting needles cause) column flowers or scattered flowers (generally on both sides of the needle cloth rack). Causes:1, needle tongue askew, needle tongue rotation is not flexible;2, the cloth tension is too loose;4, triangle alignment is not adjusted;5 、 the needle is too shallow or inconsistent.Four, dilute RoadA stitch of loose or tight straight lengthwise is formed on the fabric, and the fabric coil is too long or too short (individual or whole cloth). Causes:Characteristics: the warp: fixed on a needle bar: the 2 or 2 pin or loose or tight straight to the stripe.1, change the wrong needle or sinker;;2 needles, sinkers, severe wear;3 、 the groove of the needle and sink is too dirty;4 、 the length of the needle is askew, the needle tongue is slightly askew;5, in order to debug the needle;6, the machine is seriously lack of oil;7, stretch cloth tension regulating improper, loose,double-sided cloth tight jersey;8, triangle alignment improper, the weight is too light or too heavy;9, groove and sink groove wear deformation (double old machine, rib old machine);10, the old and new mixed needle etc..Five, barA number of columns in the knitted fabric, coil size, fabric color change periodically, transversal hidden. Causes:Features: weft direction, periodicityFor example: 1 "102F 34 single jersey, 102 row 6cm, 6cm cycle.1 34 "84F double machine, 42 row, about 4cm, 4cm cycle.1, the yarn delivery wheel not winding or too little, lose no fuzz round clean yarn;2, the inverted yarn and not inverted yarn mix, cotton moisture and no resurgence of mixing, size yarn mixed;3, break spandex, double yarn interrupt one, lining spandex wrong sequence;4, the yarn feeding wheel, yarn wheel, belt tooth hole fly blockage;5, yarn channel is not smooth or biased too much;6, the yarn wheel clutch is not in place;7, after the yarn, the roller pulley does not put in place;8, yarn order does not meet the process requirements;9, with the wrong number, different batches of different manufacturers mix;10, different twist direction, different monofilament number, original number, mixed use, etc..Six, bad needleIn the production process, resulting in the needle damage dueto various reasons, the oil to the long defect.Causes:1, wear, knitting needle, needle hook tongue fracture;2, roving, big knot yarn causes needle breakage;3, improper adjustment of the machine, resulting in crooked tongue;4, pin heel crash;5, cloth floating (loose cloth, needle cylinder is too low).Seven, oil needleCauses:1, refueling volume is too large or too small;2 、 the syringe is too dirty;3, needle oil, etc..Eight, leakageNine, different fiber flyOn the cloth, all fibers that are not of the same colour as the fabric itself are produced. Causes:1 、 the machine is not cleaned;2, the machine seal is not complete;3, when cleaning, different fiber flying to other machines;4, regular cleaning of bobbins flying;5, color, to be woven for too long;6, raw materials with different fibers;7, yarn, light, upper, dark, lower and so on.Article quoted from:Yarn count calculation method1. unitsThe fixed length system:A. tex: the mass gram of a yarn of 1000 meters in length is called the characteristic number.Formula: Ntex = (G/L) * 1000Medium: G is the weight of the yarn (gram), and L is the length of the yarn (meters)B. denier Neal: the mass gram of a 9000 meter long filament at a fixed moisture regain is called denier.Formula: Nden= (G/L) * 9000Medium: G is the weight of the filament (gram), and L is the length of the wire (meter)The constant weight system:A. public counts (male branches): 1 grams of yarn (silk) has the length of meters.Formula: Nm=L/GStyle: 1 for yarn (silk) length (meters), G for yarn (silk) weight (grams)B. count (Ying Zhi): the number of 840 yards of a 1 pound yarn.Formula: Ne= (L/G) * 840Medium: L is the length of the yarn (yarn), and G is the weight of the yarn (thread).2, unit conversionA. number Ntex and British count NeNe=C/ Ntex (C is constant, chemical fiber is 590.5, cotton fiber is 583, and if blended yarn can be calculated according tomixing ratio, such as: T/JC (65/35) 45S yarnC=590.5*65%+583*35%=588, and then calculated according to formula)B. imperial count Ne and metric count NmPurified fiber: Ne=0.5905Nm pure cotton: Ne=0.583NmBlended yarns: such as T/JC (65/35), 45S, Ne=(0.5905*65%+0.583*35%), Nm3, special number Ntex and metric NmNtex * Nm=10004、特数ntex 与旦数ndeneverything ntex = 9 *织物分类及鉴别的基础知识2004 - 12 - 14 作者: 中国品牌服装网为保护作者权益, 转载本站信息注明作者和出处--------------------------------------------------------------------------------一、织物组织1、定义: 纺织品是在织机上由相互垂直的两个系统的纱线, 按一定的规律交织而成, 也就是经纬线按一定规律地相互沉浮, 使织物表面形成一定的纹路和花纹, 这种组织称为织物组织.2、织物组织分类:①原组织: 是最简单的织物组织, 又称基本组织.它包括平纹组织、斜纹组织和缎纹组织三种.②小花纹组织: 是由上面三种基本组织变化, 联合而形成的.如山形斜纹布、急斜纹.③复杂组织: 又包括二重组织 (多织成厚绒布, 棉绒毯等) 、起毛组织 (如灯芯绒布) 、毛巾组织 (毛巾织物) 、双层组织 (和纱罗组织毛巾织物).④大花纹组织: 也称提长花组织, 多织出花鸟鱼虫、飞禽走兽等美丽图案.⑤缎纹组织: 布表面光滑但不结实、易刮伤、易起毛.3、织物的密度: 密度指织坯成品单位长度中经纱和纬纱的根数, 常用10平方厘米或1平方英寸中纱线根数表示.床上用品织物常见密度30s纱78 65,78 * *: * * * 54,20s纱60 60,40s纱90 90、110 80、133 72,28s纱70 * 60 *, 单位: 根 / 1英寸.4、织物的回潮率, 公定重量.①回潮率 = (湿重 - 干重) / 干重×100%公定回潮率: 棉纱8.5%, 棉布8%, 涤棉纱65 / 35布匹 3.06%, 涤棉50 / 50%, 布匹4.2②公定重量: 织物在公定回潮率下的重量为公定重量.二、纺织品分类:1、按用途可分为衣着用纺织品、装饰用纺织品、工业用品三大类;①衣着用纺织品包括制作服装的各种纺织面料以及缝纫线、松紧带、领衬、里衬等各种纺织辅料和针织成衣、手套、袜子等.②装饰用纺织品在品种结构、织纹图案和配色等各方面较其他纺织品更要有突出的特点, 也可以说是一种工艺美术品.可分为室内用品、床上用品和户外用品, 包括家居布和餐厅浴洗室用品, 如: 地毯、沙发套、椅子、壁毯、贴布、像罩、纺品、窗帘、毛巾、茶巾、台布、手帕等; 床上用品包括床罩、床单、被面、被套、毛毯、毛巾被、枕芯、被芯、枕套等.户外用品包括人造草坪等.③工业用纺织品使用范围广, 品种很多, 常见的有蓬盖布、枪炮衣、过滤布、筛网、路基布等.2、按生产方式不同分为线类、带类、绳类、机织物、纺织布等六类:①线类: 纺织纤维经纺纱加工而成纱, 两根以上的纱捻合成线;②带类: 窄幅或管状织物, 称为带类;③绳类: 多股线捻合而成绳;④机织物: 采用经纬相交织造的织物称为机织物;⑤针织物: 由纱线成圈相互串套而成的织物和直接成型的衣着用品为针织物;⑥无纺布: 不经传统纺织工艺, 而由纤维铺网加工处理而形成的薄片纺织, 称为无纺织布.三、织物的经纱或纬纱各种织品都有长度和宽度, 与布边平行的长度称为匹长, 匹长的方向就为织物径向; 与布边相垂直的长度称其幅宽, 幅宽的方向为织物的纬向.在织布时, 用于径向的纱为经纱,The yarn used for weft is called weft.Four. Shrinkage of fabric1. Shrinkage of fabricThe shrinkage of a fabric is the percentage of shrinkage of a fabric after washing or soaking. In general, maximum shrinkage of fabric and synthetic fiber blended fabrics, followed by wool, hemp fabric, cotton fabric has shrunk greatly, and the center, is the largest viscose fiber, artificial cotton, wool fabrics.2, fabric shrinkage factors:The material of the fabric is different and the shrinkage is different. In general, hygroscopic fibers expand in water, increase in diameter, shorten in length, and shrink greatly. If some viscose fiber water absorption rate is as high as 13%, and synthetic fiber fabric moisture absorption is poor, itsshrinkage is small.The density of the fabrics is different and the shrinkage is different. Such as latitude and longitude to the density similar to the latitude and longitude to the shrinkage is also close. The density of the fabric, the shrinkage to the big, and conversely, weft than dense fabric, weft shrinkage is also large.The fabric yarn of different thickness, shrinkage is also different. Coarse cloth yarn shrinkage is big, fine yarn fabric shrinkage rate is small.Fabric production process is different, shrinkage is also different. Generally speaking, fabric in the weaving and dyeing process, the fiber should be stretched many times, processing time is long, the greater tension applied fabric shrinkage, and on the contrary small.Five, how to identify fabric?:The handle of fabric is an important content for people to distinguish the quality and quality of fabric. To be specific, the feeling of touching the fabric by hand has a psychological reaction. Because of the variety of fabric, the quality of the fabric varies with each other, and the texture of the fabric is greatly different. Feel has the following aspects:The fabric is crisp and loose bones;Smoothness and roughness of fabric surface;The softness and hardness of fabric;Thin and thick fabric;Cold and warm of fabric;The fabric has no stimulation and thorn less bowel feel to the skin.For example: hand stroked silk textile cool; wool fabric has a warm feeling; feeling fine and smooth Dacron cotton fabric is made of woven yarn copy; rough feeling for low yarn fabric.In addition, people can borrow the help of the role of hand stretching, scratching and other operations, and then through the observation of the eye, hand feeling, you can determine the fabric's elasticity, strength, wrinkle resistance and fiber category. But in general, touch is the most important way to buy Fabrics and clothing.Six cotton woven fabrics1. Definition: pure cotton woven fabric is made of cotton as raw material. It is woven by warp and weft yarn, weaving, weaving, weaving and weaving.2, pure cotton fabric is divided into:The color of white cloth: ordinary cloth, fine cloth, denim, canvas, twill fabric, color cloth.The color: blue cloth, Mobu, sulfide sulfide blue, grey cloth, Shilin Shilin color poplin, colored card card, various Chinese.Calico: a cloth of various colors and patterns on printing and dyeing. Such as: plain cloth, printing, printing, printing twill Satin serge.The dyed fabric: it is the yarn or thread after dyeing, after the machine woven cloth such as a cloth, cloth, velvet, sheets, decorative cloth.3. Characteristics of pure cotton fabrics:The hygroscopicity of cotton fiber has better moisture absorption, under normal circumstances, fiber to the atmosphere around can absorb moisture, the moisture content is 8-10%, so it contact the skin, makes people feel soft and stiff. If the moisture content of cotton increases, the surrounding temperature is higher, the water content in the fiber will all evaporate, disperse, so that the fabric to maintain water balance, make people feel comfortable.The moisture: because the cotton fiber is a poor conductor of heat and electricity, heat conduction coefficient is very low, because the cotton fiber itself has a porous, high elastic fiber can accumulate a large number of advantages, between air and air is a poor conductor of heat and electricity, so the cotton fiber product has good moisturizing effect, wearing cotton fabric clothes make people feel warm.Heat resistance: pure cotton fabric is good in heat resistance. Under the temperature of 110 degrees Celsius, it will only cause moisture evaporation on fabrics,The fiber is not damaged, so the cotton fabric under normal temperature, wearing, washing and dyeing have no effect on the fabric, thus to improve the wearability of durable washable cotton fabrics.The alkali resistance: resistance to alkali cotton fiber large, cotton fiber in alkali solution, fiber damage phenomenon does not occur, the performance of the pollution to take after washing, disinfection impurities, but also for dyeing, printing and various kinds of processing technology for cotton textiles, new varieties to produce more cotton.Hygiene: cotton fiber is a natural fiber, the main component is cellulose, there are a small amount of waxy substances and nitrogen containing substances and pectin. Pure cotton fabric has been examined and implemented in many ways, and the fabric has no irritation to the skin. It has no negative effect. It is beneficial and harmless to the human body for a long time, and it has good hygienic performance.Seven, man-made fiber fabric (chemical fiber)1, definition: chemical fiber is the use of natural high polymer material or synthetic polymer material, by chemical process processing and obtain textile fiber collectively.2, classification (according to the raw materials and methodsof production):The artificial fiber is the largest chemical fiber production varieties, it is the use of natural cellulose or protein polymer material such as wood, bagasse, reed, soybean, cheese and other raw materials, through chemical and mechanical processing and. Such as: artificial cotton, rayon, artificial wool, tiger kapok, Qiang Fu cotton.Synthetic fiber: synthetic fiber is a kind of chemical fiber. It is a by-product of the petrochemical industry and the coking industry. For example: polyester, nylon, terylene, polypropylene fiber, vinylon, polyvinyl chloride etc. belong to synthetic fiber.Eight, blended fabric:Blended fabric is cotton, chemical fiber and other silk, hemp textile products of natural fiber blended yarn fabric. For example: polyester cotton, polyester wool gabardine etc..Nine, fabric products washing, ironing, collection, storage essentials:1, clothing key parts should pay attention to type, such as shoulder, collar, cuff and so on, especially the resin finishing hard collar, must use scrub.2, has the typical style of the fabric, pay attention to the protection of its unique appearance has such as corduroy, velveteen, etc.. Twist when you want to be in the inside of thebread, drying when flat off, to avoid deformation of suede. For jacquard fabric, with hard brush with washing, to prevent broken yarn fluff.3, cotton fabric has good physical and chemical properties, but it should not be soaked in the washing liquid for too long, the exposure time should not be too long, to prevent damage to the color.4, cotton fabric easy to float color, washing to prevent string dyeing and color, affecting the fabric appearance.Fiber computing methodFixed length system:A. tex: the weight of a yarn of 1000 meter length at a fixed regain is called a number.Formula: TEX= (G/L) * 1000Medium: G is the weight of the yarn (gram), and L is the length of the yarn (meters)B. denier Neal: the weight of a 9000 meter filament at a fixed regain is called denier.Formula: NTEX= (G/L) * 9000Medium: G is the weight of the filament (gram), and L is the length of the wire (meter)Fixed weight system:A. public counts (male branches): 1 grams of yarn (silk) has the length of meters.Formula: NM=L/GStyle: 1 for yarn (silk) length (meters), G for yarn (silk) weight (grams)B. count (Ying Zhi): the number of 840 yards of a 1 pound yarn.Formula: NE= (L/G) * 840Medium: L is the length of the yarn (yarn), and G is the weight of the yarn (thread).4, bedding selection of common raw materialsPure cotton yarn: 36TEX (16S), 28TEX (21S), 18 * 2TEX32S/2), 15TEX, 40S), 14 * 2TEX (42S/2), 10 * 2TEX (60S/2)Polyester cotton yarn: 20TEX (30XS), 15TEX (40S), 13TEX (4/S)The warp or weft of a fabricAll kinds of fabrics are length and width, length and parallel to the selvage called horse horse long, long in the direction of vertical and radial fabric; the length of the width of edge phase,The direction of the width is the weft direction of the fabric. In weaving, the radial yarn is warp, and the weft yarn is called weftT/C 35% polyester 65% cotton 45 * 45110 * 7644 "What does this mean?:T/c polyester cotton adopts 35/65 polyester cotton yarn45X45 the warp and weft are 45sThe density of 110X76 warp and weft, the number of roots per inch or CM44) 44 inches wideThe line of yarn is expressed in more than one way:I. fixed length system: the greater the value, the greater the yarn.Number number: 1000 meters long yarn quality grams, the unit symbol tex (special), it is a measure of the international general. Such as: 1000 meters long, the weight of yarn is 18 grams, this yarn fineness is 18tex.Once the number: 9000 meters of yarn quality grams, symbol denier (Dan Neal, unit D/, Dan) is usually used to represent chemical fiber or silk fineness. Such as: 9000 meters long, yarnquality grams of 150 grams, the yarn fineness is 150D. The ` `Two: fixed weight system: the greater the value of the finer yarn.Metric counts: 1 grams of heavy yarn having the length of the meter, the unit symbol Nm, which is usually used to indicate the fineness of wool yarns. Such as: 1 grams of yarn has 54 meters, the yarn fineness is 54Nm.A count of 840 yards of the length of a pound of yarn, the unit symbol Ne, used to indicate the fineness of a cotton yarn. Usually, the 32, 40 (abbreviated 32`S, 40`S) is the British count. For example, the length of a pound of yarn is 32 840 yards, and the yarn is 32`S in fineness.Three, yarn fineness index conversion between units1, the number of tex and Ne: English count number (Tex) =590.5/ count (Ne)2, the number of tex and D: the number of denier denier (Tex) =0.11* (D)3, the number of tex and Nm metric number number: (Tex) =1000/ metric number (Nm)4, imperial count Ne and metric count Nm: British count (Ne) =0.59* metric count5, metric count Nm and denier D: metric count (Nm), =9000/ denier (D)。