外文文献原文+译文原文The study on the design of neuter clothingH ous e WAbstractSocial and economic development, social thought, opening up and the progress of science and technology, men and women style presented the diversified pattern of neuter the fuzzy gender differences in style, from the beginning of non-mainstream des ign till n ow has develop ed i nt o on e of the mains t ream fas hi on d es ign style. Fashion brands have launched in recent years, the neutral flavor of fashion, neuter clothing market share of more and more, neutral fashion, with its broad group of sex leads the urban street fashion. Neutralization of free and open way of life style, gave people a comfortable and enjoyable.K ey words: Neut e r; Cl ot hing; Gender roles; Design1 IntroductionThe beginning of the 20th century the rise of the feminist movement, make the neutral clothing as a kind of style into the line of sight of people. In the 90 s, the neutral clothing has used by each big brand clothing as one of the fashionable e lement s, s uc h a s dust coa t w i th a ne ut ral style, s ui ts, t-shirt s and j e ans have bec om e people like everyday clothes. Neuter clothing style is a simple, pure; reject all multifarious mincing, personalized style. As a special kind of clothing style, neuter clothing fashion has been intensified in the social life, so it is necessary for us to study the clothing neutralization phenomenon, to study its causes and the development of sociology. This article mainly from the sociological association as well as the relationship between men and women clothing and gender status in the society, which is based on analyzing the change of the study the social basis of the neutral clothing appear; Again from the social system, economic development, cultural trend and fashion designers to the influence of the neutral clothing style, etc., it is concluded that the neuter clothing phenomenon is the development of social consciousness, the sexual role transformation, the new clothing design trends are affecting the results.Neuter clothing style has become the mainstream of one of the clothing style, can meet the demand of modern social personalized aesthetic. After more than a century of development, the neuter clothing style has represents a unique charm, is also one of t he fashion t r e nd i n th e fu ture. T hi s a r t ic l e throu gh t o the de pt h of the ne ut ral c lothing style formation and development, through to the neuter clothing design style and design characteristics of interpretation, through to the neuter clothing market development prospect of thinking, for the future research to neuter clothing style, to provide certain theoretical basis.2Dress a nd gende r consciousne s sSex differentiation is one of nature's gifts. Not just the differentiation in humans; only humans, however, to make gender differentiation have cultural significance. Gender or sexual difference. For humans, the difference between men and women. Human gender is conceptually different from animal sex, because sex not only det ermined by the biologi c al characteristics of human, hu m an spi ri t and s oc ial natur e of human gender has a psychological social attribute, therefore, the human gender including biological sex, psychological sex and gender. Human biological sex, men and women is the difference in the structure of the body, this is the most basic difference, is the basis of the psychological gender and gender on. Psychological sex r efers to t he m en a nd women in such a s pec t s as pers ona li t y, te m perament, em ot iona l, and mental difference. Man’s social gender refers to people such as language, communication, symbols and education cultural factors constitute the judgment of the gender social standards. In human culture, clothing is the most directly reflect the culture of the gender consciousness form. Different dress of men and women is not only a feature of modern society, is also a historical phenomenon of very long. Costume history shows that as far back as 2800 BC Sue beauty, clothing on gender differences and gives a different form.In 2000 published by the American psychological association and the university of Oxford encyclopedia of psychology cited for gender roles defined by Carroll: gender roles is decided by the certain culture is suitable for male and female behavior system, also including those men and women is seen as a form of basic attitude andemotion. Gender roles (sex role), as by the society with a gender (male or female) consistent patterns of behavior. Men or women in such aspects as behavior, expression, tone of voice, clothing has its own characteristics, they play a different in t he soci e ty. Rol e a nd the division of labor a re o ften seen a s g od's truth. W omen wit h men's or women's men's wear, is one of the female role in sex rebelled, Simon child is called "men against" "she doesn't want to give up the right, but she also don't want to be deprived of the status of women, she chooses to participate in the world of men, even the most of it.”Women’s men's wear, with this "compromise" between active p ersona l ity a nd s ex ro l e, and amou nt ed to "a state of ps yc hologic a l b alance”.Women’s men's wear phenomenon is accepted by society. It embodies the value of men with the male sex of praise, in the interests of the patriarchal society.The progress of the society makes the history of sexual personality and gender values vary in modern society, gender personality value has been changed, more equal g end e r p e r s onal i ty val u e. S oc ial real i ty i nevitably a f fect s people's dress code a nd aesthetic standards, amphitricha dress to freedom, but both sexes mode still exists. Aesthetic standard mutates, the majesty of male charm is not absolute, but rather masculine in miscellaneous in some women's gentle but reflect in the women's gentle feeling. Contemporary clothing reflects the characteristics that: men from wide fat to f it, in th e male s t yl e into the fibe r characteri s tics of beauty; Fiber the dress al s o stressed that the dynamics/embodies the moderate male style.3The neuter clothing design styleIn the field of clothing, style refers to the uniqueness and difference of clothes or accessories. Neuter clothing style is characterized by: clothing modeling may be, form and refined; No obvious gender tendency, clothing decoration element and simplified properly; Clothing main tone to neutral color or no color; Fabrics are used more comfortable, good plasticity material. Neutral style is not because of gender fuzzy and obliterates the personality characteristics, on the contrary, the appropriate to reflect neutral dress in rich individual character characteristic. This feature is composed of a state of uncertainty intertwined, and sometimes masculine, gently lyrical, and occasionally showed comprehensive lasting appeal. Therefore neutral style hasbecome popular, clothing lies in the grasp of the gender neutral style, one is the trend of the outside of the gender neutral, namely the excavation of the common elements; It is sex in contrast, namely to find the opposite sex element.3.1Styl e restoring anci e nt w aysRestoring ancient ways is to reminisce about the good things and miss, restoring ancient ways is not intact copy of the once popular element and clothing styles, but the designers through the change of The Times, to those who once popular element to a new style and show the world that once again the fashionable tide. Celine is neutral w ith repre s enta t ives of th e fa m ous brand, Paris f as hi on week 2012 spring and summer, Celina shows the spirit of going to go through with restoring ancient ways. Deliberately do big coat sleeves, make women more free and easy handsome taste between walking. Dolce & Gabbana 2012 autumn/w inter collection or elegant handsome or mature sexy Sicily noble men will bring us back in the 1910 s of 20th c entur y. E verywh e re the key s of the g ol d e mbroidery m a ke integral style, de l ic a te a nd costly, adding to the noble sentiment and drama.3.2Style of deconstructionIn today's modern high-speed development, the social environment and cultural background is becoming more and more inclusive and diverse, the traditional concept o f m en a nd wome n dre ss ha bit s is unde rg o in g gr e at c ha n g e s. Men's wom e n wear, ladies' man, costume design concept and cut constantly innovation _.Deconstruction fashion style advocated jumping, fracture, split, combination of elements and collage, make the clothes appears cloud thickens, secrecy and rich connotation, very accord with neuter clothing aesthetic style.2012 Madison Martin Margie couture show of spring and summer, in a similar wardrobe of clothes as the prototype, her boyfriend will wear again after its deconstruction on women's bodies. Use has a strong sense of a chip cloak, deconstruction of stiff leather clamp, suit jacket with the sleeves cut off, and before the split leather skirt to deduce female neuter features of hale and hearty. 3.3Luxurious styleFuture there will be two big trends: fashion is all the way toward simplicity. Another way is too costly. With the improvement of social economic level, moreattention paid to the clothing brand value, high-grade fashion like Dior, Burberry has far exceeded the consumption level of the general public, but because they lead the fashion, and high-end, limited release materials, and got some pursuit of quality of life o f cons um ers. Costly s tyle from class i ca l a rist oc rat i c l uxury, lux ur y and p opular culture and bold, passionate and enthusiastic, which creates a flashing and vulgar, bold and unrestrained, and elegant, gorgeous between infinite charm, luxurious, sex appeal and fashion. Brightly colored bright, bold lines, modeling is fashionable, rich move feeling, is the unique aesthetic art in strong pioneer characterization, is full of i magination and ornate t ha n i n re alit y. M i l an fashion w eek of 2012 aut u mn winte rs, Gucci 2012 will take us back to the 19th century, realize the Diablo, ornate classical lady feel.4Analysis of characteristics of neutralization costume design4.1CharacteristicsCol or is the key to de cide things style, e a ch c o lor f rom col d to warm, fr om so ft to the strong can show different personality. Color than modeling, fabrics and other factors, said not to occupy a more dominant position, but he is the most direct to sensory stimuli. Clothing aesthetic value is by clothing color, shape and material of the three complement each other, perfectly together and show up. Such as: use more a vant-g arde s tyle bold and bright, high contras t c olor. Classic a l dress s tyle is t o a dopt the elegant, color coordinated color. Postmodern style emphasizes colorful, exotic style of national wind and by combining a variety of elements as the main c haracteristics.4.2The characteristicsClothing modeling can be divided into two parts, inside outside modeling and modeling, the equivalent of "style”.Refers to the structure of the clothing modeling design, it include the structure line, collar, sleeves, etc. The structure of the clothing line refers to reflect each splice site in the clothing, constitute a line of garments' integral form, including the provincial highway, pleat, line, decorative thread, etc. No matter and simplified structure line can be summarized as straight line, arc, and three kinds of curve. Light line spell able, curve, straight line and curve coordinate eachother, constitutes a pleasant visual aesthetic feeling. Line structure can sometimes create illusion, the designer can use it as fault rule design, make the wearer's body appear better than true state. Abandon the adornment of heavy and complicated, return t o s i mplicity, neutr a l cl o t hi ng w i t h mod es t a tt i tude i n the ey es of th e wor ld. S ex is no longer a designer to consider the primary factor, the design of the neutral clothing trying to weaken the differences of men and women in the physiological and physical structure, the profiles of the neutral clothing model presents the convergence between men and women style, contracted modeling nonsexual neutral clothing became one of t he fashion design.4.3The fabric characteristicsClothing design is not just on the canvas or drawings show the effect of clothing, but through a variety of fabric, through the fabric structure, fabric texture, fabric color feeling, fabric thickness form to reflect design modeling design. Someone put c lothi ng design a s the m ater i al of t he sc ul pture, the ap pe a r a nc e of cl ot hin g is use d to reflect the fabric, can produce heavy lines with thick cloth, frivolous fabrics can reveal the line of light again, pretty hard or soft cloth of contour line and each are not identical. With the gradual improvement of the quality of people's life, modern clothing is more and more pay attention to the principle of comfortable, beautiful, p ra c ti c al, advocat e na tu ra l, and pay atte nt ion to environment a l prote c ti on. T he development of science and technology also have greatly enriched the fabric market, designers can use a variety of texture of fabric, to enrich the design of the neutral clothing, in order to achieve the effect of pursuit. Using different appearance of the fabric to people's psychological feeling is not the same?文献出处：House W. The study on the design of neuter clothing [ J]. Stellenbosch Papers in Linguistics Plus，2016，4（7）: 65-75.译文中性化服装设计研究House W摘要社会经济的发展、社会思想的开放和科学技术的进步,男女着装风格呈现出了多元化的格局,中性化这种模糊男女性别差异的着装风格,从一开始的非主流设计到现在已经发展为主流的服装设计风格之一。