毕设附件外文文献翻译原文及译文原文The cr eative r ole of sour ces of inspir a tion in clothing design 作者Martin GIntr oductionSources of inspiration and its personal interpretation, visually and technically, play an important role in the design process, in increasing creativity. Clothing design studies and the creative role of design inspiration, during the early informal and actual clothing d esign p r oc ess e s i s ope n t o sci ent ific i n vestigation li ke ae s thetically d r iven designs in other domains.Studying creative fashion design as process and product is seen more problematic than other design-led industries, as the interaction between the design elements and principles, material properties, adaptation and modification of design i ns pi ra tion are c ompl e x. Clot hi ng design, as a variety of ae s t he tic and functio na l design processes, shares many characteristics of engineering design process.Research and observation are critically important in the fashion business. By researching and observing, designers gather background information for design, including studying current and future fashion trends and try to predict what the m a jori t y of t he ir c ustomers w i ll want in the forese e able f ut ure. In order to keep up with the changing world of fashion, fashion awareness should become second nature to every clothing designer.Design and clothing a s a visual and tactile sensor y designIt is well known that design is two things: process and product, as verb and noun. As design problem solution process, it is researching, setting the source of inspiration, planning, organizing to meet a goal, carrying out according to a particular purpose and creating. As product it is the end result, an intended arrangement that is the outcome of that process or plan.Clothing is an example of applied design, even the most exciting, original idea must show awareness of its practical purpose and environment. We realise that some art is pure, "art for art's sake" but most creations in the daily world are for a practicalpurpose and use. Design as process is planning to meet a goal, and thus applies to eve r ythin g i nt entionally created for a pu r pose. The steps and or de r of t he process a r e essentially the same regardless of the end product. These steps are very similar to management as a planning process.Design as man made product and service falls into two major categories: sensory and behavioural. Sensory design is perceived through the senses, and is classified as visual, auditory, olfactory, tactile and gustatory. Behavioural design is planned action. Many products, however, include aspects of both, because design may be perceived t hroug h t h e senses and t he n i nt erpre ted beha vi oura l ly. A fashion s h ow, f or example, include both sensory and behavioural designs.R esear ch methodology and findingsThe importance of source of inspiration and their role in creative clothing design has been little understood and, therefore, rarely received attention in this industry. [ 6], [ 7], [ 8] E ckert and Stac e y (1998, 2000, 2003) studied knitwea r d e s i gn ca s e, w hi c h shares many characteristics of complex engineering projects and as an example of "practical design" in a fast moving and highly competitive manufacturing industry. Their work included a large ethnographic study of the knitwear industry, which produced a detailed design process model and an analysis of the causes of c om munication problems within design tea m s. [15] Mäkirinne-Cr oft et al. (1996) tried to explain the fashion design process in terms of quantum mechanics and psychoanalysis and see design creativity as the ultimate mystery; their description of the design process is simplistic.The author has undertaken a progressive series of empirical studies, based on observation and interviews, looking at ready-to-wear (RTW) clothing design; in situ observation, semi-structured interviews and constrained and semi-constrained design tasks. This empiric approach combines ethnographic observational methods with the knowledge analysis techniques of artificial intelligence. It is effective in situations where conventional knowledge acquisition methods are insufficient, when broad understanding of an industry is needed as in the fashion industry, not just a case study of a single individual or company.In this research, the creative role of sources of inspiration in visual clothing design by novice and ex pe rt clothi ng des i g n e r s was ass e ssed t hrou gh e m piri c al research. As subjects, 16 talented clothing designers, 11 university-level fashion design students in Fashion Design Department at Dokuz Eylul University and five professional designers participated in the experiment carried out in this research. The first group of subjects included advanced fashion design students, seven talented students selected from the third and fourth year of undergraduate studies, and also four students of postgraduate studies, who also works as a free lance or part timea s sista n t designe rs i n the c lothing i ndus t ry. T he sec o nd g roup was com po sed o f five professional designers with a minimum of 5 years of experience in clothing industry. Sour ces of inspir a tion in clothing designWhere does the fashion designer get ideas and inspiration for new styles? The answer is everywhere and everything. Anything visual and tactile, in fact sensual, can be a s ourc e of i nspi ra tion for a garm e nt. Throu gh t e le vi sion, t he designer e xpe ri ence s all the wonders of the entertainment world. In films, the designer is exposed to the influences of all the arts, and lifestyles throughout the world. Because consumers are exposed to movies through international distribution, films prime their audiences to accept new fashions inspired by the costumes. Museum exhibits, art shows, world ha p penin g s, ex pos i t ions, t hea t res, music, da n c e a n d world t ravel are a ll s o urce s of design inspiration to fashion designers. The fashions of the past are also a rich source of design inspiration. W hile always alert to the new and exciting, fashion designers never lose sight of the past, they use old things in new ways.As stated the inspiration for a garment within a collection or for an entire collection can come from an infinite variety of sources. Sources of inspiration are often linked to the social "spirit of the times" also called the "zeitgeist". Understanding the state of current fashion and searching for ideas and sources of inspiration involves looking at art objects and books, going on trips to places like Paris and Milan, visiting museums, watching people on streets and going on country walks. Designers are most creative when they are directly exposed to the sources of ideas.On the other hand, it has been observed in the fashion industry that there are two fundamen t al a pp roaches in t he creative clot hi ng des i g n pr oce s ses:(1)material, thus fabric, inspired clothing design process; and(2)conceptual clothing design process, such as several themes originated from the universe of arts, nature or products.It is known that the high-fashion "name" designers typically develop a concept, also called theme, for their collection in order to be more creative and original.The major types of idea sources in design-led industries are previous products, artifac t s, na t ural obje c ts and phenom e na. I n c a se of c lot h ing design, ga rments, fa bri cs and trims as previous products, play an important role in sources of inspiration. Although, there is a broad recognition that much of the design proceeds by modification of previous ideas, in case of fabric inspired clothing design, designers search for new forms and styles with newly developed or invented materials. For exam pl e, the deve l opment of e la s t he n fabr i cs, s uc h a s L ycra, i ns pi red d esigners t o figure-hugging silhouettes.C onclusionsAnything visual and tactile, in fact sensual, can be a source of inspiration in fashion design. Design ideas do not simply materialize out of thin air. First, the designer does care ful r es e arch, but what makes a designe r's c ol lect i on s pec i al a n d original is his or her unique interpretation of design sources. Therefore, in order to be more creative and original the sources of inspiration play an important role in clothing design.Research and awareness are the key to creativity. Designers must learn most of all to keep their eyes open, to develop their skills of observation, to absorb visual ideas, blend them and translate them into clothes that their customers will like. The design process shows that realistic observation of outside influences and needs, extensive research and awareness and logical thinking and order, remove a great deal of the supposed "mystery" of design or creativity. One who thoroughly understands design as product and process and has mastered the use of appropriate materials and adaptation techniques can be "creative" and can translate the source into reality as asuccessful fashion product.Sources of inspi r ati on are use d at the e arly stages of design a nd t hr oughout t he entire design process. From the findings of this research, the role of sources of inspiration in clothing design can be summarised as follows:-increasing originality and creativity;-making the design process easy;-deriving harmonious colour schemes directly;-maintaining harmony and uniformity of the collection;-de r ivin g t ec hn ica l a cu m e n from p roduc ts i ns p ire d, es p ecial l y from p r evious garments;-understanding the fashion appropriation of the season; and-drawing the borders for the design framework.创意性服装设计研究作者：马丁引言灵感的来源及其个体性、可见性和技术性，这些对提高设计过程中的创造力方面起着重要的作用。