旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
1920s
1930s
1940s
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
The distinction(区别)
• Qing: broad, flat, long to feet, silk. • Rep : shaped waist.
distinction
• Qing: wearing s Nhomakorabeaacks, see the bottom of trousers from the opening. • Rep : wearing silk stockings, show the legs. • Qing: use brocade(织锦) or jacquard(提花 织物). • Rep : printed fabric(印花织物), simplicity.
• In 1920s
In the early Republic of China（中华民国），the cheongsam began to be popular again. The body became shortened. The waist （腰部）was narrowed. Later there was a new change that style of collar （领子）was highlighted to be fashionable to show feminine appearance.
衣服是一种言语， 随身带着一种袖珍戏 剧……贴身的环境—— 那就是衣服，我们各人 住在各人的衣服里
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
旗袍第一夫人
• 宋美龄 • Soong May-ling (1897-2003) • First lady in Republic of China. • She owns the most number of qipao all over the world.
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
邓丽君
Where there are Chinese there is her voice, she really made the beauty of the cheongsam, cheongsam accomplished her legend. 有华人的地方就有邓丽君的 歌声，她成全了旗袍的美丽，旗 袍成就了她的传奇。
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
Qing dynasty
Republic of China
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
The structure
立领
• Frog 盘扣 • Mandarin collar 立领
• Lapel / front of a garment襟
• Openings 衩 • embroidery刺绣
旗 Cheongsam The evolution（历史沿革） 袍• The late Qing Dynasty
中国 特色
After the Opium War(鸦片战争), the European-style suits entered China first. The wide and loose body had gradually become short and narrow. In 1919, the Ordinance（法令） about . garments was announced by the National Government and cheongsam was established to be the national garments.
旗 袍
Cheongsam
中国 特色
• From the 1930s to 1940s
G olde n E ra
1930s and 1940s saw the cheongsam in its peak fashion(时 尚顶峰). Affected by the styles of the Europe, a step forward was made in exposing the female figure（女性曲线）. The cheongsam in 1930s was shortened with the length to the knees, and the cuffs(袖口) were also narrowed.
海派风格以吸收西艺为特点，标新且灵活多 样，商业气息浓厚。
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
京派
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
海派
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
Representative figures
• 张爱玲 Eileen Chang (1920-1995) A well-known writer，be addicted to cheongsam. • Life is a colorful gown, covered with lice. 生命是一袭华美的袍子，上面 爬 满了虱子。
中国 特色
The factions(派别)
The Beijing style, with red-tapism , appears reserved and concise
京派风格则带有官派作风，显得矜持凝练；
Shanghai style with a characterization of absorbing the West Arts is up-to-date , flexible and has a strong business atmosphere.
opening
long sleeves 旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
short sleeves
sleeveless.
旗 Cheongsam 如意襟 袍
中国 特色
琵琶襟
斜襟
双襟
高领 旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
低领
无领
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
高开衩
低开衩
旗 Cheongsam 袍
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
Wide and loose Cover body A - line
旗 Cheongsam Why 袍
中国 特色
call Qipao china dress
• Qipao, which is famous with its harmony and unity ,is known as the representative of the Chinese dress culture. • It shows the elegant temperament（ 优雅气质） of Chinese women, demonstrates the culture(文化) and virtues（美德）of our nation . • It creates an impression of simplicity and quiet ,charm, elegance and neatness. . It’s a magnificent rainbow of the human culture.
• From 1966 to 1976 • From the 1950s to 1960s
Cultural Revolution（文革）, disaster In the East Asia, the founding of the People’s Republic of China marks the end of the old life. The cheongsam, which has been cherished by people for a long time was not practical and • In modern times was set aside(放置一旁). But in 1950s and 1960s, cheongsams began to show up now. . Popular again again （再次出现）in the people's lives.
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
The Chinese traditional culture –
Cheongsam
中国传统文化—旗袍
Chen Li-na Wuhan University of Technology 2012年4月17日
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
contents
The definition of cheongsam The origin of cheongsam The evolution of cheongsam The structure of cheongsam Representative figures My personal opinions on cheongsam Pictures appreciating
衩
刺绣
襟
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
The style(样式)
• Chi-pao has many styles, and the change is mainly based on sleeves, Jin, collar, openings, and the length of Cheongsam. • Sleeves （袖子）: wide sleeves, narrow and long sleeves,
middle sleeves, short sleeves or sleeveless.
• Jin（襟）: round Jin, straight Jin, slanting Jin(斜襟),