• In 1920s
In the early Republic of China, the cheongsam began to be popular again. The body became shortened. The waist was narrowed. Later there was a new change that style of collar was highlighted to be fashionable to show feminine appearance.
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
for Miss Manners
青 花 瓷 宝蓝
青花瓷系列设计灵感取自 青花瓷器，采用了中国传统针 绣，再现了青花瓷的晕染效果。
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
09公一 包伟旦
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
Cheongsam reflects the elegant charm of oriental women
In the film 《In the Mood for Love》（似水年华） ， Maggie Cheung （张曼玉） change more than 23 sets of qipao, after the movie release. It set off a rush of ―cheongsam hot."
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
邓丽君
Where there are Chinese there is her voice, she really made the beauty of the cheongsam, cheongsam accomplished her legend. 有华人的地方就有邓丽君的 歌声，她成全了旗袍的美丽， 旗袍成就了她的传奇。
• Qing: wearing slacks, see the bottom of trousers from the opening. • Rep : wearing silk stockings, show the legs. • Qing: use brocade(织锦) or jacquard(提花 织物). • Rep : printed fabric(印花织物), simplicity.
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
The Chinese traditional culture –
Cheongsam
中国传统文化—旗袍
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
Contents
The definition of cheongsam The origin of cheongsam The structure of cheongsam Representative figures Pictures appreciating
中国 特色
short sleeves
sleeveless
旗 Cheongsam 如意襟 袍
中国 特色
琵琶襟
斜襟
双襟
高领 旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
低领
无领
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
Representative figures
• 张爱玲 Eileen Chang (1920-1995) A well-known writer，be addicted to cheongsam. • Life is a colorful gown, covered with lice. 生命是一袭华美的袍子，上面 爬 满了虱子。
double Jin（双襟）, Pipa Jin（琵琶襟）, and so on.
• Collar(领): high collar, low collar，or collarless.
• Openings（开衩）: high openings, low openings, no
opening
long sleeves 旗 Cheongsam 袍
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
Pictures appreciating
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
旗 袍玉
中国 特色
Cheongsam
Expo (展览会)2010 Shanghai China
脂 白
立领采用中式旗袍的演变，既有中国文化含义的诠释又 融入了国际时尚化的设计手法 。
衩
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
The style
• Sleeves: wide sleeves, narrow and long sleeves, middle
sleeves, short sleeves or sleeveless.
• Jin（襟）: round Jin, straight Jin, slanting Jin(斜襟),
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
The definition
• The Qi Pao or Chi-Pao, also known as the cheongsam or mandarin gown(长袍)； • A body-hugging (紧身的)onepiece Chinese dress；
衣服是一种言语， 随身带着一种袖珍戏剧 ……贴身的环境——那 就是衣服，我们各人住 在各人的衣服里
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
旗袍第一夫人
• 宋美龄 • Soong May-ling (1897-2003) • First lady in Republic of China. • She owns the most number of qipao all over the world.
Cultural Revolution, disaster
• From the 1950s to 1960s
In the East Asia, the founding of the People’s Republic of China marks the end of the old life. The cheongsam, which has . Popular again now. been cherished by people for a long time was not practical and was set aside. But in 1950s and 1960s, cheongsams began to show up again in the people's lives.
旗 袍
Cheongsam
中国 特色
• From the 1930s to 1940s
G olde n E ra
1930s and 1940s saw the cheongsam in its peak fashion. Affected by the styles of the Europe, a step forward was made in exposing the female figure. The cheongsam in 1930s was shortened with the length1976 knees, and the cuffs(袖口) • From 1966 to to the were also narrowed.
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
The origin
Nurhachi（努尔 哈赤)
the Manchus （满族人）
Qipao
Banner gown （旗服）
Embryo
a collarless, tube－ shaped gown
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
Wide and loose Cover body A - line
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
Qing dynasty
Republic of China
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
The structure
• Frog 盘扣 • Mandarin collar 立领
立领
• Lapel / front of a garment襟
• Openings 衩 • embroidery
• In modern times
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
1920s
1930s
1940s
旗 Cheongsam 袍
中国 特色
The distinction
• Qing: broad, flat, long to feet, silk. • Rep : shaped waist.
Distinction
旗 Cheongsam The evolution 袍• The late Qing Dynasty
中国 特色
After the Opium War, the European-style suits entered China first. The wide and loose body had gradually become short and narrow. In 1919, the Ordinance（法令） about garments was . announced by the National Government and cheongsam was established to be the national garments.