• Awareness of risks

对潜在风险的认识
Declining areas of the market, competition levels 市场中正在走下坡 路的部分，竞争对手的水平
• Awareness of trends

对流行趋势的感知
Shopping habits, attitude to price 消费者的购物习惯，对价格的态度
英国市场的规模和形式
分析 相关的因素 策略制定

Review of fashion B&M structures
• • B&M structure charts Roles of Buyer and Merchandiser
时尚买手和商品企划师
工作结构图 买手和商品企划师的职能
2
Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day
7
UK market size and shape 英国市场的规模和形式

Awareness of risk
现存的危机
• Retail inflation at 7% versus 29% for economy over the last 10 years 最近十年内零售业通货膨胀率高 • Brand and retailer loyalty is declining 顾客对品牌的忠诚度下降 • Consumer spending being diverted from clothing to non clothing markets 消费者转向非服装类消费 • Retail market is mature 零售市场非常成熟 • Price competition fierce in womens entry price point basics 刚进入市场的女装品牌的价格战十分激烈
CORPORATE STRA TEGY TRADE FAIRS / FASHION SHOWS Supplie r
PLAN NIN G
BUYING TRIPS Raw Materials
M ER CATUS
Make
Pre-Retail
EDI MONI TOR SUPPLI ERS
M I L TO N KEYN ES
SELL
REPLENISH
CL EA R
Season End
Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day
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UK market size and shape 英国市场的规模和形式

Market data is portant for any retailer/designer来自市场的 数据对零售商和设计师都是至关重要的信息

PR and Marketing
公共关系和市场营销部门
向顾客传达品牌品质 和购买小组协调一致进行工作

Quality assurance
• Communicate brand equity to customers • Work in liaison with buying teams
质检部门

Retail
Design teams 设计部小组
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Buying structure
购买部结构
Buyer 买手
Assistant Buyer 助理买手
Buyers Assistant 买手助理
12
Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day
Merchandising structure
Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day
6
UK market size and shape 英国市场的规模和形式

Awareness of opportunity
现有的机遇
• Silver consumers to grow by 40% in the next 20 years 年长顾客会随社会人群 老龄化而变得越来越多，未来20年后会增长到40% • Post war baby boomers have highest disposable income战后生育高峰后的这代 人收入很高，用于消费的钱相应提高。 • Youth customers have more time to shop 年轻的消费者有更多时间去购物消费
• Shopping seen as key social event for youth customers 对年轻消费者来说，购物消费被看成是一项主要的社会活动
• Womenswearwear style and price led 女装趋势由款式和价格所引导
• Menswear brand and ease of shopping led 男装消费则更注重品牌和休闲
• Price key factor in customer purchasing 在消费者购买中，价格是关键因素
Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day
9
Retail structures 零售职能结构
Buying and Merchandising 购买和商品企划
• Awareness of market

对市场的清楚认识
市场规模，组成， 消费者
Size, segments, customers
• Awareness of opportunity

对所存在机遇的认识
Growth areas of the market, demographic changes 市场中在发展的 部分，人口统计的变化
• On line shopping just 4% of market
网上购物只占了市场的4%
• Value retailers market share 20%, doubling in 6 years 零售业占整个市场的 20%的，在六年后还会翻番
Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day
Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day
5
UK market size and shape 英国市场的规模和形式

Awareness of the market
对市场的了解认识
• UK retail market valued at £ 250bn in 2005 英国零售业在2005年价值25000亿英镑 • One third of retail sales in stores 1/3属于店铺零售业 • Clothing & footwear market valued at 15% of retail sales 服装，鞋业占了整个零售市场的15% • Womenswear represents 60% of clothing/footwear sales 女装占了整个服装，鞋业销售的60% • Retail represents 6% of UK GDP 零售业占了整个英国国内生产总值的6%
商品企划部
Merchandiser 商品企化师
Assistant Merchandiser 助理商品企划师
Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day
Allocator 配货员
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Related roles 相关的部门

Design
设计部门
• Head of design ensures consistent brand equity across all categories 设计总监要确保品牌内的所有产品都保持品牌品质的一致性 • Individual designers work with individual buying teams 一个设计师和一个 购买小组一起合作
RANGE REVIEWS
RAISE ORDERS
Pack
HO USE OF FRASE R
Season Start
n ne n Ch a Gre e
l
DESPATCH/STORAGE
TRANSPORT
RECEIP T Analyse
M ER CATUS
Share Price Analyse
ADVERTISE/ PROMOTE
Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day
8
UK market size and shape 英国市场的规模和形式

Awareness of trends
趋势的感知
• Consumer awareness of designer market results in less loyalty 市场变得选择越来越多，设计款式越来越丰富，顾客开始产生疑问，为什么要对 某一品牌保持忠诚呢
Buying teams
购买小组
• Buyers and Merchandisers equal on team 买手和商品企划师的地位等同 • Defined roles: Buyers product, Merchandisers financial 买手负责商品,商品企划师负责财务计划
Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day 15
Copyright: James Clark and Prentice Day 14

Supply chain
Notes on structure charts 对职能结构图的说明
Guide to structure charts 结构图
• Structures vary according to complexity, size of business and market positioning 职能分布可能会因为不同情况，商业大小或市场定位而不同